WHAT THE PAPERS SAY

collected by Frank Card


 

EVEREST EXPEDITION

RAF 2002 carries an excellent article by Ted Atkins on the RAFMR Everest expedition, with some spectacular photographs.

 

1ST ANNIVERSARY OF THE RAF MOUNTAIN RESCUE TEAM’S ASCENT OF EVEREST - 22ND MAY 2002

The RAF Mountain Rescue Team’s tribute to the Millennium was an expedition to climb to the summit of Mount Everest. The successful ascent was particularly noteworthy as members of the MRT are full-time servicemen who support the Mountain Rescue Service in a part-time capacity and give up their off-duty time in the evenings and at weekends to train with the team.

            Chief Technician Dan Carroll who is an airframe and propulsion technician presently serving at RAF Leuchars and Corporal Richard Bale who is an air electoral technician from RAF Kinloss reached the summit of Mount Everest on the 22nd May 2001.

Postscript:

Mount Everest is the world’s highest mountain, a super-giant among giants. It is named after Sir George Everest, a British surveyor-general of India in the nineteenth century. The Sherpas, Nepalese people famous as mountain climbers and porters call it Chomolungma, Goddess Mother of the World. The mountain was first climbed on the 20th May 1953, by two men in a British-led expedition: the Sherpa Tenzing Norgay and the New Zealander Edmund Hillary.

Memorial Flight 2002

 

SCOTTISH BOG REVEALS WARTIME SECRETS

RAF teams were called out to an unusual incident in Scotland on August 23rd 2001 when the wreckage of a wartime Manchester bomber surfaced in a remote bog in Aberdeenshire.

            The small amount of wreckage is believed to be from an Avro aircraft that crashed in the Gartly area in foggy conditions in 1943. All of the Polish crewmen were believed to have been killed in the incident.

            Although most of the wreckage had been cleared at the time, it appears parts of the aircraft must have landed in the surrounding bog.

            A local farmer was walking in the area and discovered what appeared to be a pistol, ammunition and possibly some human remains.

            Grampian police were alerted, along with specialist RAF teams. A party from Kinloss mountain rescue team, led by FS Al Sylvester, cordoned off the site.

Ammunition

            Explosives ordnance personnel from Lossiemouth were also called out to recover the ammunition and a Very pistol.

            RAF spokesman Mike Mulford said: “The recovery operation went smoothly and the teams worked well together.

            “The Very pistol was found to be live but no-one could say if it was in a condition to be fired or not.

            “It’s not every day that RAF wreckage surfaces in a bog like this, but the services reacted quickly and safely.

            “The story of the Manchester crashing in the bog is well-known in the area. It is a tale that has almost passed into legend so the farmer would have made the connection straight away that what he saw must have belonged to the Manchester.”

            The Manchester was the twin-engined predecessor of the famous Lancaster bomber. Although criticised by bomber crews as unreliable, the teething problems of the aircraft assisted in the development of the Lancaster.

            One Victoria Cross was awarded to a Manchester pilot, FO Manser of 50 Squadron, for his actions during a night raid over Germany in 1942.


                 RAF Mountain Rescue teams, led by FS Pete Winn from Kinloss, have just returned from Iceland where they have been carrying out a long-term recovery operation on an RAF Fairey Battle that crashed in 1941. Four men were killed in the crash.

Memorial Flight 2002

 

Al Sylvester adds: We picked up a wee job for a crashed Manchester last Summer. Some kids had been digging in an area where it was rumoured that the aircraft had crashed. The kids found some wreckage and some human remains, i.e. part of tibia we think. They freaked out and called the police. We turned up an hour later, called in bomb disposal to give the area the all clear and then we finished by giving the area a full sweep. The people on the farm had been superb and had found several rounds and a Very pistol and a watch. I don't believe anything was followed up apart from what you have read recently. I hope this of some use to you, it was a quick callout with very significant memories for a lot of older members of the local community.

            At the time I believe it was a very good PR exercise for the RAF.

 

A TASTE OF MOUNTAIN SEARCH AND RESCUE

JAMES HENDERSON, RETIRED POLICE SUPERINTENDENT

On the morning of Christmas Day, 1956, I was on duty along with several of my colleagues in the police station at Fort William, all of us looking very much forward to our Christmas dinner, and enjoying the bonhomie which normally prevails at such times, when someone said, “Oh, look at this”. I looked out of the window and saw a young lad making his way staggeringly towards our office. The remark was made by one of our lads to the effect that the young gentleman seemed to have been celebrating Christmas rather early.

            However, it was immediately apparent that this was not the case; he was, in fact, extremely exhausted and incoherent in his speech. It became apparent that he was about to reveal a mountaineering mishap, and on regaining his equilibrium somewhat he was able to explain that he and four others while climbing Ben Nevis had become exhausted but was unable to say on which part. I then took him to see the relief model of Ben Nevis, which is kept at the police station for such purposes, but he was quite unable to make any sense of it: none of the gullies or other salient features was recognisable to him. He explained that they had gone in near a distillery and then followed a burn for some distance before actually starting the climb. I took this to be Allt a Mhuillinn on the way up to Castle Ridge.   By the time they reached the summit they became exhausted and quite unable to face the return trek. They could see the lights of Fort William, and I realised that, instead of the summit of Ben Nevis, they were somewhere near the summit of Castle Ridge. His mention of seeing the lights made me realise that they had spent the previous night there, and this he confirmed. It was obvious that if not already dead, his mates would be in a very poor condition from exposure as the weather, although dry, was bitterly cold and stormy.

            So much for our Christmas dinner: nothing else for it but to organise an advance search party and set off as soon as possible.

            The advance party consisted of constables Duncan MacKenzie, George MacKay, Angus MacKay, William MacKenzie and myself. (Regrettably, all the constable are now deceased.) An advance party has to travel with the bare necessities in the interest of speed. Nevertheless we carried a Duff stretcher. Having contacted the Lochaber Mountain Team we set off by way of Allt a Mhuillin in increasingly worsening weather conditions.

            In those days we were very poorly equipped, having neither suitable clothing nor proper equipment. We met two well equipped climbers on their way back and I asked one of them if I could borrow his ice axe. He let me have his ice axe against my signature on a scrap of paper. They then departed but not before explaining that conditions on the summit were well nigh impossible.

            I despatched Duncan MacKenzie and George McKay some distance to the west, while I continued upwards to the summit of Castle Ridge with Angus MacKay and William MacKenzie. Some distance from the summit there is a steep but fairly smooth snow covered slope, relieved somewhat by the odd boulder projection. It had become clear that Angus and William, without the aid of ice axes, could not continue, and I left them in the meagre shelter of a cliff at the foot of the snow slope. I continued upwards alone.

            The weather by this time was simply appalling. It was impossible to stand up; to have done so would have meant being blown off the ridge like a feather. Without the use of my ice axe I felt I would have been lifted off the surface. The severity of these conditions is well nigh impossible to describe. The gusts on striking the ridge sounded like tremendous peals of thunder lasting for several seconds, to be followed by several seconds of deathly silence; a most eerie sensation.

            I have never, before or since, experienced anything remotely resembling the ferocity of the weather conditions prevailing that night.

            I had earlier visions of being able to lead these unfortunate lads to safety, if they were still alive, but it became increasing obvious that nobody could have possibly survived such terrible conditions. I began my crawl backwards to the point where I had left Angus and William and shouted without response until, during one of the deathly silences, I heard a boulder crashing its way down the mountainside some distance away. I then had a response and we were able to join up.

            By this time we could see the torch lights of the back-up team at the west end of Lochan Meall an Suidhe where they had sensibly decided

Our thanks go to the Lochaber Mountain Rescue Team, from whose journal these two accounts of one incident - the police account and the RAF Kinloss MRT report - are taken

 

Thanks, too, to Heavy Whalley, who passed them on to us

to stay. We joined these lads where it was discovered that Angus had very successfully erased the seat of his trousers, thereby allowing his posterior to enjoy an extra measure of frosty air, giving rise to a good natured banter by some of the inevitable comedians present.

            Duncan and George then rejoined us to reveal their own hair-raising experience. Traversing a steep snow covered slope, Duncan slipped on his back and shot down several feet, and got his heel against a small projecting boulder which broke his descent, but he was quite unable to move for fear of another fall. George, who was carrying the Duff stretcher, undid the securing leather straps and tied them together, and was then able to release the stretcher, which, without an extra inch to spare, Duncan was able to grab. With their combined effort Duncan was able to inch his way out of danger.

            The search was then abandoned and the parties returned to Fort William for the night. The following morning, the search was resumed in the same area, and we found the frozen stiff bodies of three of the victims not much more than 50 metres from where I had been on the previous night. The fourth victim was nowhere to be found in that area.

            However, two ravens were seen circling high above Castle Ridge: an ominous indication that something was amiss. Despite much scanning through binoculars there was no sign of a body in the base area of the Castle precipice. It was impractical to conduct another SAR in that area that night, and we returned to Fort William with the three bodies already found.

            Next morning in much better weather, a party set off for that area and after a brief search we found the fourth body. It was apparent that some time after his mate had left to report the matter to the police, he too had set off, but due to darkness, or numbness of the brain due to the cold, he lost his way and fell over the precipice.

            The finding of bodies and their recovery is not the end of police responsibility in the matter; they have to notify the next of kin, and prepare and submit comprehensive reports for the information of the Procurator Fiscal.

            Alas, I am no longer fit to engage in these operations, but naturally I am still very interested in the activities of our local search and rescue team. It is most gratifying that, to my knowledge, not one of the LMRT and the police team has come to grief in the execution of these operations. Long may that continue.

 

Timetable of events - the official RAF account

25th December 1956

1530     PO Alexander and 9 members of the MRT set off up the tourist path with 1 Thomas stretcher, 1 casualty bag and 1 first aid box and pack.

1700     Party arrived at Half Way Lochan (144727), whence lights could be seen flashing at many points on Carn Dearg, suggesting that the climbers had not yet been found. (This was later confirmed by one of the police search parties descending the path from Carn Dearg.)

1700     Flt Lt Cooke and Kinloss party arrived at Forward Base. Sgt Younger and SAC Thompson sent to join search party. SAC Fraser arrived at Forward Base to report that the climbers had not been found, and that in view of the extremely high winds, freezing temperatures and darkness, the civilian parties were coming off the hill while the RAF team would spend the night at the CIC hut (166723). Since the day’s search had been unsuccessful it was decided to try to obtain more precise information from the surviving climber, and Flt Lt Cooke and SAC Fraser proceeded to Fort William hospital to try to interview him. Flt Lt Cooke and SAC Fraser returned to Forward Base and Fraser and LAC Comrie volunteered to take rations to the party in the CIC hut. Fraser thought that there might be a chance of finding survivors if a further search were made that night, and wished to take in the summit of Carn Dearg on their way to the CIC hut. In view of the extreme weather conditions Flt Lt Cooke advised against this. (It later transpired that Fraser and Comrie attempted to continue the search, but had to give up in the early morning owing to the ‘below zero’ conditions. That they attempted it at all reflects great credit on them for doing their utmost to try to save life.)

26th December 1956

0830     MRT arrived at Half Way Lochan (143727). LAC Comrie was sent to forward base to report and to notify Base Leader that a red signal from Meall an t-Suidhe (138729) would signify that bodies had been found. From information received via SAC Fraser it was decided to search the area well to the north of Carn Dearg, near to the cliff edge, and the party was divided into pairs for this.

1015     LAC Muir and Sgt Younger located three bodies, which were frozen. A red signal was fired and all MRT parties (at 157722 app.) converged by 1030. A start was made in getting the bodies down by lowering them down snow slopes on ropes until scree was reached.

1330     A police party with one Thomas and one Duff stretcher arrived within a few hundred feet of the bodies’ original position after this party had seen more red signals. Their stretchers were lowered down the snow slopes to the scree below and four policemen also climb down. All three bodies were then made ready for lowering on the stretchers. No news having been received at Forward Base, Flt Lt Cooke and Cpl Hannon set out towards Carn Dearg to try to obtain information.

1530     Stretchers lowered down from the screes and hauling down the Allt a Mhuilinn began.

1815     First two stretchers arrived at Aluminium Works via railway bogie, and were transferred to civilian ambulance.

1845     Last stretcher arrived at Aluminium Works via railway bogie, and was transferred to civilian ambulance.

2000     Consultation with inspector at Fort William police station revealed that little hope was now held out for the fourth missing climber, and it was decided to defer a search for his body until 28th, in order to give the search parties time to recuperate and reorganise, unless civilian volunteers were available on the morrow. Consent of RCC was obtained to this.

27th December 1956

1000     Telecon. Flt Lt Cooke/police inspector at Fort William revealed that no civilian volunteers were available to search for the fourth body that day. It was therefore confirmed with RCC and OC Flying Wing that 2 x 3 tonners and eight members of the MRT should return to Fort William for this purpose.

1900     MRT arrived Fort William police station and was accommodated there overnight. In consultation with the police inspector it was decided to start as early as possible on the following day in view of the short daylight hours. The police accordingly warned the civilian volunteers to be ready for a start at 0600 on the following morning.

28th December 1956

0700     A party 17 strong, composed of 8 RAF and 9 police and civilians, left the Aluminium Works with 1 Thomas stretcher and ropes to begin the ascent of Carn Dearg by the Allt a‘Mhuillin. A strong, blustery wind and occasional rain showers made the going difficult.

0815     At first light the party reached a small wooden shelter at approximately 155755 and the rain showers turned into snow. In the face of the strong wind-driven snow the party continued up the Allt a’Mhuillin path for one and a half hours before bearing right to ascend the scree and heather slopes leading to the foot of the crags to the North of Carn Dearg.

1000     After traversing for some 200 yards the upper party located the body lying on a steep snow gully some 40 feet below the commencement of sheer rock. The steepness of the snow gully made it necessary to keep the stretcher some 100 feet below the body on easier ground, and the body was secured by a rope and then lowered down to the stretcher from an ice axe belay. At the transfer point the stretcher party made a shelf in the snow, the body was strapped on to the stretcher, and the stretcher was lowered on ice-axe belays from that point for another 2 or 400 feet down to the Allt a’Mhuillin path. From this point the Thomas stretcher could be dragged over the frozen heather and controlled by eight men, although a halt was made at the wooden shelter previously mentioned, the party reached the Aluminium Works by1230 hours. The last mile was covered by means of the single-track Aluminium Works railway, the management having supplied a bogie and two diesel locomotives to bring the party down.

1230     It was then learned that the funeral of the three climbers was to be held at Fort William at 1300 hours on Saturday 29th December, and permission of RCC was obtained for three members of the RAF Kinloss team to remain behind, one to represent the RAF at the funeral and two to take supplies of food up to the CIC hut in the Allt a’Mhuilinnn to relace that used by the search party on the night of Christmas Day.

Lochaber Mountain Rescue Team Journal

 

Nick Couloir’s Problem Page

Dear Nick

I’ve been studying Mountain Rescue for some time now and have decided to make a career of it. I’ve watched ‘999' on the telly a lot and just love the idea of getting dressed up in all that fancy gear and whizzing around the country in LandRovers with ‘Mountain Rescue’ on the side and blue lights flashing. Someone suggested that I write to you for advice on how to get started in my new career.

Arthur Braincell

 

Dear Arthur

Join the RAF.

Nick.

Lochaber Mountain Rescue Team Journal.

(Heavy Whalley will no doubt be able to advise on whom and where libel writs should be served.)

 

ESSEX BUNROES

Places in Essex 120 metres or more, listed by Derek Keeble.

No. Metres         Parish                           Place                 Map Ref

01 147            Chrishall                        Oldfield Grove    TL443363

02 128       Chrishall                        Crawley End       TL445396

03 125       Berden                           Park Green         TL460286

04 124        Helions Bumpstead          Sage End           TL635417

05 122        Debden                          Hamperden End   TL570307

06 120            Ashdon                          Winsey Farm      TL617411

“Bunroes” is a play on the Scottish idea and title of Munroe Listed Mountains. Essex hills are bun-sized in exaggerated comparison with the Highlands.

Essex Rambler, August 2002

 

COLIN PIBWORTH BEM

Both this year’s and last year’s issues carry obituaries of Pib. Frank Card has written a long celebration of Pib’s life which will appear in the Alpine Journal 2002.

 

NO ORDINARY CALLOUT

The following letter appeared in the May issue of High.

 

Dear Sir

I read Frank Card’s article ‘No Ordinary Callout’ in last month’s High with considerable interest, not least because as a member of the Cairngorm Mountain Rescue Team I had been actively involved in the search for the missing aircraft and pilots.

It saddens me that Mr Card has chosen to write about this rescue because from the perspective of our team (bearing in mind that the crash happened on our patch near the boundary between the Cairngorm and Braemar MRTs) the handling of the search and rescue effort by the RAF was very poor.

A number of inaccuracies are also present in the article, some of which are detailed below.:


1          In normal Search and Rescue operations the police and local civilian teams organise the rescue. This allows rescuers with the best local knowledge to be deployed to the most likely search locations. In this case the RAF played the leading role without consultation with the local team and with Cairngorm MRT personnel consistently deployed in the least likely search locations. This in spite of the fact that many of the most experienced and knowledgeable members of the nearest RAF team (Kinloss) were in fact climbing on Everest at the time.


2          Those RAF personnel deployed to search the Cairngorm plateau near Ben Macdui were faced with deep new snow. Avalanche danger can present a problem in parts of the generally flat plateau, but local knowledge and careful route choice can easily circumvent this difficulty. Additionally, in these circumstances search efforts are hampered by slow progress on foot; CMRT has a dedicated ski section which could have searched the most likely areas far more quickly and effectively had we been deployed to the eastern plateau.

3 The weather that week (and especially the windspeed) was not unreasonable for the time of year, as the records from the Cairngorm weather station show. To put this in perspective, a party of students under instruction from Glenmore Lodge spent the whole of both Wednesday and Thursday (including overnight snowholes and night navigation) travelling across the Cairngorm plateau.

4 On the evening of the first night (Monday 26th) we were stood down at 21.00 GMT. CMRT were tasked again on Tuesday 27th to areas well away from Ben Macdui and our services dispensed with at 19.00, just as the RAF were ‘stepping up’ their search for the remaining missing pilot. On Thursday 29th, with the pilot still missing, the CMRT Leader phoned the police to enquire why we were not searching with a man still missing in our search area. At 21.45 the Team Leader was contacted by Grampian police, who had by now taken over the SAR effort and asked to assist on Friday. The missing pilot was located very close to the wreckage at 11.45 on Friday, by a party including members of CMRT.

I have no wish to sour relations between civilian and RAF teams, who do generally work well together in their common goal of saving life, but it is galling to read an article which is so misleading. This is a private letter from me, but written with the full knowledge of the CMRT leader.

Cathy Mordaunt, Mondhuie

 

Frank’s response appeared in the July issue:

In her comments on my article ‘No Ordinary Callout (March), Cathy Mordaunt (letters, May) queries why the RAF “played the leading role without consultation with the local team....”. Like pretty well anyone else closely involved with the Royal Air Force Mountain Rescue Service I have but the highest regard for the civilian teams, so clearly some explanation is needed.

      I was seeking to tell the story of an RAF Mountain Rescue Service operation from the RAF teams’ viewpoint, though I hope giving proper credit to other agencies at the appropriate points. As I thought all civilian mountain rescue teams were aware, the RAF Mountain Rescue Service is always the prime mover where aircraft are concerned. This is largely for reasons of training and expertise: aviation fuel, armaments, ejector seats and man-made mineral fibres all pose serious risks. (None of this precludes the RAF teams from helping the civilian MRTs on request, subject of course to service requirements.)

      Overall responsibility for locating missing aircraft, both military and civilian, in the UK, rests with the Ministry of Defence and the Royal Air Force, delegated to Aeronautical Rescue Co-ordination Centre at RAF Kinloss. When an aircraft is reported missing or crashed, the ARCC brings in one or more MRTs, the senior Team Leader acting as the ‘On Scene Commander’. On the F-15 incident, this was Flt Sgt Al Sylvester, Team Leader of RAF Kinloss MRT. RAF teams, incidentally, do not have ‘patches’; all are trained and equipped to operate anywhere in the UK and sometimes overseas. Some were in Bosnia when the bullets were flying; and readers may remember the SAR (with the Malaysian Air Force and other agencies) of two British Army officers and three Hong Kong soldiers on Mount Kinabalu, Borneo, in 1994. WO Alister Haveron, who was on the F-15 search, was involved in both of these.

    Not only Kinloss and Leuchars personnel have Scottish MR experience; many members of the English and Welsh teams can claim the same. Cathy Mordaunt suggests that having civilian teams and police to organise the search “allows rescuers with the best local knowledge to be deployed to the most likely search locations.” Yes, where climbers are concerned, but searching for an aircraft, especially a fast jet, brings in other considerations: the direction and speed of the aircraft, the behaviour of a fast aircraft on impact, precisely when and where the radar blips disappeared, the ability to calculate parachute drift after ejection.

      Missing aircraft are not like missing people; they move much faster. Teams need to search the whole area, and in poor visibility and deep snow, accurate navigation is important to ensure 100% coverage. It was not known that the crash was on Ben Macdui until a joint RAF Leeming/Braemar party found the site. When Alister Haveron’s party found the tailplane of the second aircraft and many other items on 28 March, it became fairly certain that the second pilot was at the crash site, probably buried under the snow. It was after this that the Grampian police took over the search; both aircraft had been located, and the search was now for a missing person.

      Some of the RAF Kinloss team were indeed away on an Everest expedition, but that is not unusual and such enterprises are never allowed to hamper the service’s efficacy. [Indeed, they are encouraged as valuable extra training.*] Plenty of Kinloss experience remained; three on the search had a range of 32 to 20 years under their belts and might be a bit upset at the contrary implication

      Cathy Mordaunt is, apparently, saddened by the very fact that I wrote the article. I did so because the RAFMRS is one of my major writing areas, and the American double F-15 crash on Ben Macdui was one of the Service’s major incidents in its distinguished 58-year history.

      It was the RAF that set up the first permanent mountain rescue teams in 1943, and since the war the relationship between the RAF and the civilian teams has been excellent. Long may that continue.

Frank Card, Braintree


* Omitted from the letter on publication.

MACHO OF THE YEAR

“The camera zooms in on actor Brendan Coyle’s man-of-action pose as, face to the westering wind, he points to unseen disaster on the horizon.”

CYNIC OF THE YEAR

“Out of shot, and mercifully out of sound range, three burly members of the real Lochaber Mountain Rescue team are laughing their extra-thick socks off.

“‘Ooh, our hero,’ they chortle, as Coyle presents his granite jaw to the camera. ‘Cue the cute dog and the orphan.’”

GUSH OF THE YEAR

“Today, however, the rescheduled helicopter scene goes without a hitch and Glaswegian actress Zoe Eeles, who is ‘in withdrawal from kitten heels’, is on a high. ‘That was amazing,’ she breathes, moments after being winched into the capable arms of the RAF. ‘Please, please shoot that scene again and I’ll give back my salary. It’s that “big man” thing,’ she continues, summing up the real selling point of the series. ‘People who know what to do in an emergency are just so sexy.’

POSER OF THE YEAR

“In reality, however, love on a mountain top has its drawbacks. For Eeles, yomping up a 45° incline with an 18kg/40lb pack on her back was nothing compared to the stress of getting it on with a co-rescuer (we’re not telling which one) in gale-force conditions. ‘It’s so attractive, snogging in the wind and rain with snot and midges everywhere,’ she laughs. That was the big challenge for me.’”

 

                The above quotations - but not the headings - are taken from an article which appeared in the Radio Times in March publicising a forthcoming TV drama series on mountain rescue. The series we are mercifully keeping anonymous - it was that bad. Can anybody suggest alternative candidates, from our own ranks, for the above four titles? No, on second thoughts, better not....